November 1st is big holiday in France. It is Toussaint, All Saints Day. Well it’s actually a mixtureof All Saints Day and All Souls Day, but those are details for the church to quibble over. It’s a day when people head to the cemetery.
There are two common architectural aspects of all French cemeteries: great grey walls surround a great grey army of tombstones. Even the smallest cemetery has a formidable presence of stone; even the grandest is a place of earthbound drear. Until Toussaint! Big and little, threatening or dreary, all the cemeteries of France are gloriously filled with flowers on this day. To honor their ancestors, no one goes to the cemetery empty handed. Some folks will arrive with plastic flowers that will last until next year’s visit, but most will arrive with an overflowing pot of brightly blooming chrysanthemums. The crosses and tombstones of the cemetery will soon glow from the reflected color of this expansive autumnal bouquet.
Chrysanthemums are probably the flower of choice because they are colorful, bloom late, and do not mind a little frost. Because just like Halloween in Vermont, Toussaint is always cold and dreary. The real signal of winter’s approach. There is an expression in French “faire un temps de Toussaint” which refers to cold, damp, dreary days at any time of year. It seems sort of ironic that, with it’s pageant of glowing flowers, the cemetery is the “sunniest” place in the village.
In France chrysanthemums are rarely used as garden decoration and taking one as a hostess gift is a quick way to loose a friend. That friend will either be upset because you foresee their imminent death or may take it that you are implying that they’re just as good dead as alive.
During the summer it’s sweet to notice a row of chrysanthemums tucked away in the back corner of a garden. Spring cuttings are tucked in from last year’s plants and tended all summer with the hope of a strong plant with perfect blooms for the 1st week of November. Loved ones are thought of each time the plant is tended, replanted, and finally carried to the cemetery. A touch of sadness mingled with a simple labor of love.
This past Saturday I tried to discreetly tuck into the cemetery to capture this parade of villagers, but the sense of respectfulness and the intimacy of the families prevented me from being a photographic voyeur. Instead I wandered from grave to grave. I peeked at couples that had arrived after other family members, too late to place their flowers front and center, and working discreetly to rearrange things. Parents whispering little stories to their children about Meme or TonTon. A husband filled a watering can to bring to his misty-eyed wife.
The prescribed days and rituals of Toussaint have changed over the years, but I think if I was a ghostly spirit watching over the French landscape this past week, I would appreciate the gaiety of the chrysanthemums and take this blanket of color and warm sentiments as a good sign that it’s time to tuck my soul into a peaceful rest.
For insights into french traditions and a great site for learning french I encourage you to check out Laura K. Lawless -http://www.lawlessfrench.com
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"Il faut une ou deux passions dangereusse, despotiques, ameres et plein d'ivresse pour motiver une existence."
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Continuing a wonderful chain of friends, introducing friends to the magic of Bourdeilles, France, we bring you this website.
Who we are is Tom and Susan Vieth. Tom is an artist. Susan keeps everything in our lives somewhat straight so that Tom can stay lost in his painting.
After 22 years of loving Vermont and having tremendous success with Tom’s art career we are making a new bold move - we are now living in Bourdeilles,France.
It all started ten years ago when Tom proposed we buy a house so he could have a settled place to make his watercolors while in France. Being the practical one Susan said, “No, that’s what one does when they are 60 - 70.” Tom’s response was that at that age we might not be able to make it to France. So 6 months later we had ‘the little house in France’.
We are now on to new adventures and this blog is being created to share these experiences as well as showcase weekly cartoons and sketches by Tom. And to keep you posted on new opportunities that we cook up--such as tours in our region of France, products from our region and watercolors from Tom’s sketch book.
Wish us luck, keep in touch and let us know if you are in the area of our small village in France. Life moves; hold on!
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